The World of Single Malt Whisk(e)y
September 2021
SPONSORED BY: The Water of Life A Whisky Film
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American Single Malts
September is National Bourbon Heritage Month, and while this isn’t a bourbon column, this month presents a great opportunity to chat about American Single Malts!
Even though single malts make up less than 10 percent of Scottish exports, many people associate single malt with Scotland. To revisit the traditional Scottish definition, a single malt is:
•Made from 100% malted barley
•Made at a single distillery using a pot still distillation process
•Aged in oak casks no larger than 700L for a minimum of 3 years
There are no limits on what country can produce single malts (unlike bourbon), and do note that single malt does not mean single cask - these are two separate items. One could definitely have a single malt from one cask, but “single” refers to being produced at one distillery.
What IS American Single Malt Whiskey?
Now, American Single Malts are incredibly new to the market (surfacing in the last 20 years or so) and are produced in such small quantities that there has, as yet, been no need to create a regulatory description, and currently, the only definition by the TTB addresses Malt Whiskey, not American Single Malt. This is likely to change at the end of 2021, thanks to the efforts of a group of American single malt producers.
In 2016, a summit was held (organized by Matt Hofmann of Westland Distillery) to address and solidify what an American single malt is and means. Close to 2 dozen distilleries took part. “The challenge is that the category doesn’t exist. There’s no shelf space for American single malt whisky,” said Hofmann, whose goal with the summit was figuring out how to brand and market this emerging category. Paul Hletko of FEW Spirits remarked that lack of education -- ie: consumers not knowing about or seeking out American Single Malts -- was a massive concern and signalled commercial death for the category. Where would these bottles be placed on a retail shelf? With bourbon? Scottish single malts? Who would seek it out if it was placed on its own?
Well, the summit turned into the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission and has over 180 member distilleries today. Their mission is to establish, promote, and protect the category of American Single Malt Whiskey.
As you will see if you peruse their website, everything begins with defining this new category: “We cannot share our vision for what American Single Malt Whiskey (ASMW) can be as a category if there is no consensus amongst ourselves as to what it is that defines us. Coming together as a group to collectively certify a vision for the future allows us to take the next step together, as a unified front. The combined force of a growing number of ASMW producers in the United States can then be brought to bear to address our shared mandates, the most pressing of which is a Standard of Identity” As explained by the Commission, these are the requirements for ASMW:
•Made from 100% Malted Barley
•Distilled Entirely from One Distillery
•Mashed, Distilled, and Matured in The United States of America
•Matured in Oak Casks of a Capacity Not Exceeding 700L
•Distilled to No More Than 160 (U.S.) Proof (80% Alcohol by Volume)
•Bottled at 80 (U.S.) Proof or More (40% Alcohol by Volume)
You’ll note that, while very similar to Scotch single malt requirements, there is no rule regarding the still type. This could be because many American whiskey producers use combination stills, so the Commission is factoring in the way American producers are already working. Also, there is no minimum age requirement -- again, not surprising considering the vast climate differences across the country. There’s far more temperature variation in America than in Scotland, so it’s wise taking that into consideration and not slapping an aging minimum on the whiskey.
The reasons stipulations such as these are put in place (with TTB rolling out the regulations at the end of 2021) is to protect the consumers and producers by ensuring a reputable and transparent product.
ASMW Producer Highlights
Let’s take a brief look at a few of the major players. These distilleries are among the most notable ASMW producers and have come into being specifically because of their desire to craft exceptional American single malt whiskeys.
“For centuries, single malt whiskey has been considered solely the domain of Scotland. Now, Westland is leading the emergence of an entirely new category of single malt whiskey.” Westland Distillery is arguably the most influential ASMW producer -- it was their cofounder, Matt Hofmann, who organized the 2016 Summit and led the charge to bring American Single Malts to the market. Westland is located in Seattle, WA and opened their doors in 2010. They were built on the mission to create a distinctly American--style single malt utilizing local ingredients. “Our Pacific Northwest climate is ideally suited for the production of single malt whiskey. Washington contains two of the best barley--growing regions in the world, our remarkable water is sourced from the Cascade Mountains, and we're surrounded by a cultural heritage that encourages questioning of long--standing conventional thinking.” They are transparent with their products, which is always refreshing to see. Westland offers several single malts, including their Flagship, the Outpost Range, and the Heritage Collection.
‘The Original Texas Whisky’, Balcones Distillery was founded in 2009 and is located in Waco, TX. While a producer of several styles of whisky, Balcones was created with the focus being single malt. Their flagship Balcones ‘1’ Texas Single Malt (the first whisky they produced) has been named best craft distillery whisky along with garnering over 70 other accolades. “A timeless style of malt whisky, Balcones “1” Texas Single Malt breathes new life into centuries of distilling tradition with classic techniques and ingredients adapted for New World tastes. Opening aromas bear hints of toffee and overripe fruits. On the palate, layers of toasted malt and honey give way to mellow notes of baked pears and apples. A long finish is accompanied by cinnamon and cloves. Texas made, Texas proud, we hope you enjoy the whisky we owe our success to as much as we enjoy making it.”
Located in the historic Hudson River Valley district of New York, Hillrock Estate Distillery is the first distillery since Prohibition to have a purpose built malting floor created, and they hand craft their whiskey on site from 100% estate--grown grain. “By controlling every aspect of production from planting & harvesting heirloom grains, to smoking our malt, to crafting whiskies in our copper pot still, to aging in small oak barrels and hand bottling, we are able to create the highest quality whiskies reflecting the unique local terroir.” Hillrock Distillery was founded in 2011 by Jeffrey Baker, Cathy Franklin, and the legendary David Pickerell. Some of their single malt expressions utilize imported Speyside peat.
St George Spirits, located in Alameda, CA, was founded in 1982 by Jörg Rupf and is billed as ‘America’s original craft distillery’. While their focus was not initially on producing ASMs, they put their first single malt into barrel in 1997, and it’s their innovative and exciting history with experimentation that lends itself to these truly unique single malts. They make over a dozen products -- from fruit brandies to tequila to rum to absinthe, and of course, single malt whiskey! Their Baller single malt was released in 2016 -- keep reading for a tasting note!
It’s interesting to note that, despite being such a new category, there are now more American distilleries producing single malt than there are Scottish single malt producers!
Let’s Taste!
How fortuitous that as I was writing this article, a friend happened to bring me a sample of Baller by St George Distilling. This is an American Single Malt that takes inspiration from Japanese whisky which in turn was inspired by Scotch single malt. Convoluted, sure, but an absolutely fascinating dram! Here are my tasting notes on this unique whiskey.
Baller by St George
Crafted in California
100% American Barley
Distilled in eau de vie pot stills
Aged in ex--bourbon casks and French wine oak casks
Filtered through maple charcoal
Finished in casks that previous held house--made umeshu (a Japanese style plum liqueur made from California grown ume fruit)
47% ABV
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Nose: 88/100 An incredibly pronounced nose with so many scents vying for attention. Redolent perfume notes and Asian fruits: lychee, citrus, grapes, melon, and an intense candied fruit/candy sweetness. Creamy vanilla and coffee come through once it sat in the glass for a few minutes.
Palate: 89/100 Very light on the palate with honey, white pepper, chili spice, and then the fruits really come through, particularly lychee and candied plum. There is the barest trace of toasty smoke on the back end.
Finish: 87/100 Long and perfumed with lingering honied nuts, those sweet candied fruits, and at the very end a touch of oaky spice and vegetal earthiness
Total Score: 88/100 This is one of the most interesting and unique spirits I’ve ever had the pleasure of trying. Honestly, because it is so different from anything I’ve tried, I wouldn’t have pinned this as a single malt, and possibly not even a whiskey because those hallmark whiskey scents and tastes took a far back seat to all the sweet perfume and fruit notes!
[Distiller Lance Winters did the art direction for the label, which re-imagines the legend of St. George as a samurai. The original watercolor on the front label was by Oakland artist Sylvia Solochek Walters, done to emulate woodcut. The calligraphy was done by Eri Takase of Takase Studios.] - put this with the picture
It’s worth noting that America is a large country with intense geographic and climate variances -- far more so than Scotland. We know how impactful terroir is on the finished product, which is one thing that makes American single malt whiskeys so exciting! Not to mention there aren’t centuries of history and tradition behind the craft here in America, so distillers really let their creativity shine. This is an emerging category well worth exploring, and I’m sure we’ll be revisiting this topic again soon.
